When we were planning our trip to Ladakh, what drew us to the idea of doing a homestay was the simple yet powerful concept behind it. The Snow Leopard Conservancy encourages and trains local families to welcome tourists into their houses for a very nominal fee. The money thus collected serves as an additional income for the local people. This additional income not only increases the communities’ stake in protecting wildlife, but also offsets the losses that these villagers incur due to livestock depredation by snow leopards.
Completely sold on a homestay, we managed to combine it with our two-day trek in the Rumbak Valley. Although a relatively easy trek, the altitude and the intense heat made it an arduous task. One normally does not associate heat with the mountains, but Ladakh being a cold desert, experiences extreme weather conditions.
The trek itself was a gradual climb and our path was along a river, which apart from providing a picturesque backdrop was a welcome relief from the heat. The first signs of the village were fields that gradually grew in size as we climbed further up. Our first and much needed pit stop was at this little shop that had a white canvas stretched across a pole to cover a small wall that was the enclosure. It was a struggle to get ourselves up as we did have to walk a little more to reach the village we were staying in.
The village was nothing but a collection of a few brick houses, spread out, overlooking the fields. It had a deserted look, as most people were out in the fields. Once inside a narrow corridor opens into a big room that housed the kitchen and the common area where the family have their meals and watch TV. Ladakhi kitchens are very interesting and maybe the one distinct characteristic that distinguishes their homes from any other. They have a variety of brass and steel vessels that are all displayed. The prosperity of the family is judged by their kitchen and the number of vessels on display. The lady of the house made us some gur chai or the traditional Ladakhi butter tea. It’s made of butter and is salty, almost like a soup, but it keeps the body warm and is a great source of energy.
Stating that every mountain in Ladakh is beautiful and different from the other is stating the obvious, but one cannot imagine that masses of rock and soil can look so spectacular. Add to it the clear deep blue skies and a touch of green and nothing can make it look any better.
Dinner was a simple affair, comprising rice, dal and potato subzi. We were also offered some Chang or the local alcohol that has a distinct fermented taste.
To experience what a simple life it is, one has to go and live in a village. But simple does not mean easy. Village life is very tough and villagers work extremely hard to earn a living. But yes, it’s uncomplicated as compared to our hectic, on-the-move city life, where unknowingly we miss out on the finer things in life.